Beneath the Stones of Assisi: The Roman City Under a Franciscan Town

Stand in Piazza del Comune at eight in the morning, before the first coaches arrive, and the square feels like the calm centre of a medieval town. Six Corinthian columns rise on the north side, weathered to the colour of old ivory, holding up a pediment that has watched over this space for two thousand […]

The Doors of the Dead: Reading the Medieval Houses of Assisi

Walk up Via San Francesco early in the morning, before the coaches arrive and while the limestone is still cool, and you will begin to notice them. Set into the façades of the oldest houses, a metre or so above the pavement, are narrow arched openings — too tall to be windows, too high to […]

Autumn in Assisi: A Luxury Traveller’s Guide to the Centenary Season

By the middle of September, the light over Assisi changes. The white flare of August softens into something lower and warmer, and the limestone of Monte Subasio — the same stone that built the town — turns the colour of pale honey in the late afternoon. The tour coaches thin out. The Piazza del Comune, […]

The Frescoes of Assisi: How Giotto and Cimabue Gave Europe a New Way of Seeing

Step through the doors of the Upper Church of the Basilica of San Francesco and look up, and something quietly extraordinary happens. The saints on the walls are no longer flat, golden ghosts staring out of eternity. They stand in real rooms, cast shadows, turn to one another, and grieve. Eight hundred years after the […]

At the Table of Saint Francis: A Luxury Guide to the Flavours of Assisi

Come down from the basilica in the late afternoon and the hill of Assisi gives way to something just as eloquent as its frescoes: a patchwork of olive terraces, harvested wheat fields and the blue shoulder of Monte Subasio, all of it shading to gold as the sun drops. This is the larder of Umbria, […]

Every Road to Assisi: Walking the Way of St. Francis

Eight hundred years before the first guest will set down a suitcase on Via San Francesco, the same cobblestones were already worn smooth by other arrivals: pilgrims who had walked for weeks, eyes lifted at last to the rose-pink façade of the Basilica. To stand on this street is to stand at the end of […]

Assisi in Summer: Ritual, Music and the Slow Pleasures of Umbria

By late June, the light over Assisi changes. The pink Subasio stone that clads the town glows warmer in the long evenings, the swifts wheel above the Basilica at dusk, and the medieval streets fill with the sound of festivals that have not changed their rhythm in centuries. Summer is when this small Umbrian hill […]

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